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POLECAT ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

CUT-OUT DETAIL

Trim engine compartment along the lines indicated on the picture using a dremel cut-off wheel and a sanding drum to clean up the corners. Make sure to leave approx 3/16" of material for the cowl to seat against.
This picture shows what the cut-out should look like after trimming.
Trim the front of the fuselage and saddle area as indicated in the picture. This hole in the front provides access to the back of the firewall during installation.
Trim the rear of the fuselage and saddle area as indicated in the picture.
There are two options for tank installation, this is the option that I prefer which uses the Jett CG tank item #ST120 in our store. I prefer this method because it allows me to keep the fuselage entact across the front of the wing which makes for a stiffer fuselage.
This is the second option for installing the tank. This is the system developed by the Texas crew of Jett, Helsel and Small. The tank shown is item #ST123 in our store.
Cut the area to receive the elevator joiner and pushrod. To install the pushrod, install the joiner (NOTE: THE JOINER CAN BE INSTALLED BACKWARDS PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO THE ORIENTATION OF THE SCREWS PRIOR TO INSTALLATION), then install the pushrod and connect the clevis in the small cut-out that protrudes forward.
Cut the fillet on the opposite side as shown. This small cut-out should be large enough to allow the necessary up and down travel.

REMOVING THE FLASHING

Use a chisel as shown to clean the flashing from the seem line. Pay close attention to keeping the chisel from scratching your paint.

INSTALLING THE FIREWALL

The adjacent photo indicates the tools needed to install the firewall. The small ring above the accelerator is a 1/64th ply spacer that I use to attain the proper clearance between the spinner and the front of the fuselage. The mount in the picture is item #ST116.
Prep the fuselage by sanding the area where the firewall will be gluded to the fuselage. (NOTE IF A DREMEL AND SANDING DRUM IS USED BE SURE THAT CARE IS TAKEN TO NOT SAND THROUGH THE FUSELAGE)
This picture shows how the fuselage should look after sanding with a sanding drum.
Install firewall and slide it forward to the appropriate position. Take care when cutting and sanding the firewall in keeping a snug fit.
Install your mount into the engine compartment and bolt your engine in place. Install the spinner backplate with the 1/64th spacer and secure a prop in place. Remove enough material to keep a tight fit between the venturi and the fuselage. If it is too tight the spinner backplate will not align properly.
Once you are satified with the fit between the venturi and the fuselage, hold the spinner backplate tight against the fuselage and push the firewall up against the mount. With everything tight place a small amount of CA along the mount/firewall joint. The CA applicator is indicating the area to be glued.
Unbolt the engine and remove it. Next remove the firewall and mount through the cut-out. Try to keep this assembly together as you remove it. Otherwise you will need to do the previous step again.
Drill through the mount using a 1/8" bit. Once all three holes have been drilled, remove the mount from the firewall. I can usually get the mount to "pop" off with a small tap. However, sometimes I do need to remove it using a chisel.
Re-drill all three holes with a clearance bit for your blind nuts. Install your mount and seat the blind nuts against the back of the firewall.
Apply slow set epoxy to the face of the firewall and into the screw holes. (I glue everything in place and make it a permanent part of the airplane. Be sure to use the correct length screws)
This picture shows the mount being glued to the firewall.
OPTIONAL: If you choose to tie the front of the fuselage down to the mount prep the fuselage by sanding the area that is located directly infront of the mount.
OPTIONAL: Install two screws into the front of the mount. These screws will be used to secure the mount to the fuselage.
Slide the firewall and mount assembly back into the fuselage and bolt the engine in place.
Install the spinner backplate with the proper 1/64th spacing. Install a prop and tighten everything in place. Using a VERY small drop of CA, scure the spinner backplate to the fuselage. This prevents the engine from moving during the final gluing of the firewall.
Mix up your epoxy mixture using slow setting epoxy and either milled fibers or cotton flocks. Make sure the epoxy is thick enough to stay in place but not too runny that it can run out between the firewall and the fuselage. The mixture should be slightly thicker than the cosistency of ranch salad dressing.
Apply the mixture around the edges of the firewall using an acid brush and form a fillet between the firewall and the fuselage. Use the mixture to encapsulate the blind nuts securing them in place and fuel proof the rear of the firewall. (NOTE: IF THE SMALL ROUND TANK #ST123 IS USED YOU WILL NEED TO HAVE A HOLE CUT INTO THE CENTER OF YOUR FIREWALL PRIOR TO THIS POINT.)
 


TRIMMING THE ACCESS-HOLE COVER

Follow the scribe lines on the cover. I do not have to remove the muffler to remove the cover. I accomplish this by cutting the cover as indicated. Trim the edges along the scribe lines leaving them a little proud so that you have room for adjustment. I make my first cuts with a cut-off wheel and then clean up the edges with a sanding drum.
This picture shows the finished cover. With the split cover it can easily be removed with out removing the muffler.
To make a clean hole for the needle valve, I start small. I use a small drill and make a hole near the center of the scribe lines in the cover. I take the spray bar out of my engine and install it from the other side. This allows me to install the cowl without affecting the needle. Once installed compare the hole in the cowl to the spray bar and mark the location of your hole. Notice that the first hole is too high.
After the hole is cleaned up according to the location of the spray bar your hole should fit the needle valve assembly accordingly.
This picture shows how the cover fits on the muffler side.


MOUNTING THE WING

Place the wing in the saddle lining up the centerline of the wing with the centerline of the fuselage at the rear. Mark the wing just outside the fillets. Remove the wing and sand the trailing edge so that there is a straightline between your two marks. This will allow the wing to sit in the saddle correctly.
Place the wing back into the saddle and center it. Drill and tap one of the rear bolts. I use 10-24 nylon bolts for the rear. (NOTE: THE PRE-DRILLED HOLES ARE VERY CLOSE TO HITTING THE SIDES OF THE FUSELAGE JUST INSIDE THE FILLETS. IF YOU ARE NOT CAREFUL YOU CAN DRILL THROUGH THE SIDE OF THE FUSELAGE)
Before drilling the front hole position the wing so that it is square to the centerline of the fuselage. I use a marked piece of aluminum angle for this. Once the wing is centered. Mark the leading edge of the wing or tape the wing in place. Once satisfied, drill and tap one of the front bolts. I use a 1/4-20 nylon bolt for the front. Next drill and tap the remaining 2 holes. I always apply thin CA to the tapped holes and re-tap them.
Remove the wing and counter bore the wing to all the screw to sit flush with the top of the wing. This picture shows the front bolts the same process is used for the rear. This step is necessary to provide a hard point for the screws and allow the canopy to fit correctly.
Wax your wing bolts and fill the counter bore with epoxy. This provides a perfect fit for your bolts. (NOTE: MAKE SURE TO WAX ALL OF THE SCREW INCLUDING THE TOP.) I use regular car wax for this task. But a true mold release would be better.


INSTALLING THE VERTICAL COMPONENT OF THE TORQUE ROD

Using the scribe lines as a reference mark the location of the torque rods on the top surface of the wing.
Using a dremel tool and square ended cutting tool, make the holes on the top skin that will allow free movement of your linkage and provide enough clearance for the 4-40 jam nut that you will install shortly. NOTE: THIS PICTURE SHOWS THE ALUMINUM TUBES DRILLED. ADVANCE TO THE NEXT STEP PRIOR TO DRILLING THE HOLES. (this picture also shows the rear bolts being counter-bored and filled)
Fill the open ends of the aluminum tube with epoxy. I normally use 5 minute epoxy for this task.
Using a 4-40 body drill drill through the aluminum tube and out the bottom of the wing. This newly made hole on the bottom skin will provide a reference point for making a clearance hole for the screw head.
I use a 1 1/4" long 4-40 screw and a 4-40 nylon insert nut for the vertical component of the torque rod. The picture also shows the 3/32 connector sold by Du-Bro.
Install the screw from the bottom and the nut on top. Once the assembly is tight the aluminum tube should deform slightly. I apply a small amount of 3 in 1 oil to the aluminum bushing, to allow free movement of the torque rod.
The area shown in blue indicates the location of the servo. Install the servo into one side of the wing. There are no issue with differential. Simply remove one clevis when seperating the wings.


AILERON SERVO INSTALLATION

After making the appropriate hole in one half of the wing, install two small ply plates to the top skin. Notice that they extend past the one half of the wing onto the second.
Make a small round notch in one half of the wing to allow the servo wire to pass through into the radio compartment.
Install your servo and connect the pushrods as shown.

LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION
Install, 3/32 ply plate to the top of the landing gear platform. Be sure to sand or scuff up the platform prior to epoxying the plate in place.
NOTE: Early landing gear had the holes marked incorrectly. The front of the gear should be the straight leg and the rear should be the tapered leg. Drill two holes in the front and one hole in the rear on the centerline.
Drill the rear hole in the center with a 4-40 body drill. Place a screw into the hole to keep the gear lined up as you drill the next hole.
Drill the next hole and repeat the process of installing a screw to keep the gear lined up.
Remove the gear and re-drill the three holes using a drill bit the same size as the O.D. of the neck of blind-nut. Next install your blind nuts. NOTE: If using the CG tank be sure that the screw does not extend past the top of the blind nut so that it can cause damage to the tank.

MAKING PUSHRODS
The picture to the left consists of a 5/32 carbon rod, 2 pcs of 3/16 O.D. aluminum tubing and a DuBro 2-56, threaded push rod (rod is only threaded at one end).
This picture shows how to prep the 2-56 rod for installation.
Measure out from each end 1 1/4" and drill a clearance hole for the 2-56 rod. This hole is drilled completely through the pushrod.
Use a dremel with a cut-off wheel to creat a channel from the drilled hole to the end of the pushrod. Make sure that you only cut through one side.
I use the 3/16" OD aluminum tubing to cap the pushrod assembly. You can use thread to wrap the pushrod or you can leave it as after applying CA to the 2-56 rod. I am would recommend some method of retention.
Install the 2-56 rod to test the fit. IF the fit is ok, remove the rod and fill the cavity with black CA, then re install the 2-56 rod.
Slide the 1" pc of aluminum tubing over the glue joint. The excess CA will keep the aluminum tub in place and will keep the 2-56 rod from moving outside the carbon tube. Complete the same process for the second end.

INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR PUSHROD
Install the pushrod through the cut-out in the side of the fuselage. The pushrod can be installed through the wing saddle if you choose to install it from this direction.
I use a pair of hemostats to clamped to the clevis to prevent the clevis from falling into the hole.
Assemble the elevator joiner as shown. Use a 1 1/4" 4-40 screw with a nylon insert nut and 3/32 plastic connector. Note there is a specific orientation to the joiner. The notch to the left is the bottom. The next picture will show the front to back orientation.
This picture shows the orientation of the elevator joiner. Note the 4-40 screw is tapped at an angle. This angle allows the screw head to be flat along the tapered elevator. The right side of the picture is the front of the joiner.
Install the elevator joiner into the cut-out and pay attention to the orientaition. Attach the clevis to the plastic horn previously installed to the elevator linkage
Install both elevator halves (make sure they sit flush against the fillets, some sanding may be required to achieve proper fit). Apply a small amount of pressure to the stab halves as you drill the pilot hole. This pressure is to keep them seated against the fillets. Drill a small pilot hole through the joiner out the top surface of the elevator.
Re-drill the pilot hole using a clearance bit for a 4-40 screw. Note this hole is drilled on the same angle as the aluminum joiner. Next counter sink the hole to allow the flat head screw to sit flush with the top surface.

INSTALLING THE RADIO
Cut out the servo tray using 3/32" or 1/8" five ply. The tray on the left is cut out for JR servos and the tray on the right is for Futaba.
Install servos as shown. The servo nearest the switch is the shut-off, the middle is the elevator and the rear is the rudder. I install all servos prior to installing the tray into the airplane because I feel it is easier.
Install triangle stock to the edges of the tray. The stock will need to be rounded slightly to match the contour of the fuselage.
Insert the tray into the fuselage and mark the fuselage along the top of the tray to indentify its location. Clean the area to receive the tray using wax remover or ACETONE. Next install some foam under the servo compartment. The foam is installed to prevent the servo wires from Rubbing against the fiberglass fuselage. Take a look at the Racing accessory page of our store for the sticky back foam.
I install my servo trays with Silcone Rubber. I have also used "GOOP", and "SHOE GOO" All work well. Apply a small bead along the area indicated in the picture. Make sure to apply glue to both sides.
Slide the tray into place and apply a small bead of glue along the top of the tray. I tape the wires up out of the way so that they do not get glued to the foam.

INSTALLING THE FUEL SHUT OFF
Drill an 1/8" hole in the are indicated in the picture. This hole will receive the guide tube for the shut-off. Cut the 1/8" antenna tube to the appropriate length and CA in place.
Bend .047" piano wire to the shape shown. The return leg is approximately .75" long and the leg along the top is approx .25" long.
Install the wire into the tube as shown. Mark and drill the firewall to accept the wire shut-off. This hole can be larger than the wire. I use a .093 bit for this process. This hole allows the right angle wire to completely close against the front of the firewall. IF this is unclear hopefully the next picture can clarify it.
This picture shows how the wire will act as a shut-off. As the wire is pulled by the servo it pinches the tubing against the firewall.

INSTALLING THE FUEL TANK
Drill two holes as shown. The bottom hole is for the pressure line, the top hole is for the fuel pick up line.
I cut off the tubing supplied with the Jett tank and use a softer tubing which applies less strain on the shut-off. I use a small piece of 1/8" plastic tubing (the same as the shut-off guide tube) to join the soft tubing to the pink. The popsicle stick is used to prevent the tank from sliding forward and pinching the tubing.
Install foam to the top of the landing gear plate. Note: the fuel shut-off is run along the top of the plate and underneath the foam. At this time I also install foam infront of the servo tray. This is the area that will receive the RX and Batt.
Prep the plywood plates by rounding them using a Dremel sanding drum. This allows the tank enough clearance to be installed. Slide the tank while pulling the tubing through the holes in the side. After it is installed look through the hole to ensure that nothing is pinched.
This picture was taken to show how the tubing exits the fuselage.
This picture shows how to route the fuel lines.

INSTALLING THE RUDDER HORN

This idea was stolen from Lyle Larson. Thanks Lyle!!! Use a 6-32 screw and a 1/8" nylon connector. Thread the connector approx 1/2" up the screw. Note: Leave the head in place it will be easier to install.
Drill out the rudder pushrod exit guide as shown using an 3/32" bit. Next drill a hole to receive the 6-32 screw. I use a 6-32 tap drill.
Test fit the horn by installing it. Take care that you do not force the screw out the back side. Once you feel comfortable with it's installation, apply some thick CA to the hole and thread the screw in place.
Once the CA has kicked off you can use a dremel cut-off wheel to remove the excess screw length. Before installing the clevis, I always apply gap sealing tape (Tape is available in our WEB STORE).


CONNECTING THE PUSHRODS

All connections are made using z-bends. The servo to the right is the rudder. The middle servo is the elevator and the left servo is the shut-off. Note the direction of the z-bends, this helps with how the pushrods clear eachother towards the rear of the fuselage.